You get moments where your whole body, soul and mind are just concentrated on doing something in the surf. You have to just get up, trust your instinct and fall into the wave. It's during seconds like that that you seem to just totally disappear, you as a being don't really exist at that moment… you throw yourself into the moment so heavily that you're actually inside the surfboard and what it's doing. You're inside the landscape around you and the ocean as it's surging. You get totally inside the moment and it's so intense that time disappears, everything disappears. You disappear, you're not thinking of you, Nick Carroll or whoever. It's way beyond that.
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